Growing Tip:
How do I convert a common home security light into a remote ballast
grow light?
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How do I convert a home security light into a remote
ballast grow light?
Cannabis Fact Contributed by: Spliffco, Inc.
For some reason growlight manufacturers are completely
ignoring the small, personal grower. A quick look around
Eco Green and you can see some very respectable bud being
grown under 150's, and even 70 watt HPS lights. But the
smallest ready made remote ballast growlight you can buy is
a 250 watter, and they usually cost well over $150
(US).
So, as usual in the medicinal herb growing world, you need
to take matters into your own hands.
Here how to turn a 150 watt HPS security light available
at most Home improvment stores, into a nice remote-ballast
grow light.
Materials and Tools:
MATERIALS
Regent GT150H, (About $79)
Heavy Duty extension cord of suitable length
One heavy duty grounded electrical plug end (male)
Electrical box
Electrical box plate
Romex cable connectors (3)
Wire nuts
Bolts, nuts washers
Strip of metal to secure ballast
Project case from Radio Shack ($6.99) #270-253A
TOOLS
5/16 nut driver (for removing parts from the casing --
regular pliers will work)
Philips head screwdriver
Regular screwdriver
Hammer
Power drill and assorted bits
Metal file
Wire cutters
Utility knife or wire stripper
Diagonal Pliers
Pliers
Wiring Diagram
Be careful...
Remove guts
Remove the guts from the casing - bulb socket, ignitor,
light sensor socket, ballast. The ballast was glued to the
casing. I heated the casing for a couple of minutes on an
oven burner (high), and when it was getting too hot to
hold, I put it on the floor and wedged a hammer between the
ballast and casing and popped it out gently.
REMOVE LIGHT SENSOR
These security lights are designed to automatically turn on
when it gets dark, so there is a built in light sensor that
needs to be removed.
Remove all wire nuts.
Disconnect the white wire that comes out of the sensor
(currently connected to all 3 other white wires).
Disconnect the black wire that comes out of the sensor
(currently connected to the black ower inԠwire).
The red wire coming out of the sensor is currently
connected to the black wire coming out of the ballast.
Remove the red wire, and then connect the black wire coming
out of the ballast to the black ower inԠwire.
Reattach wire nuts (there were 5 originally, now you only
need 4).
Refer to the wiring diagram!
WIRE THE SOCKET
The socket on this particular light had some metal wiring
connectors that stuck up and made it impossible to attach
to the electrical plate without some modification (sorry no
photo). Just pull the black and white wires off of the
connectors, and cut the connectors down flush with socket
base with diagonal pliers. Now loosen the connectors
(screws inside the socket), slip the wires under them and
tighten them back down. Please use some plastic electrical
tape on the end of the socket to prevent any chance of the
metal from the connectors making contact with the
electrical box cover plate.
Secure the cord in the electrical box with a romex cable
connector and wire it to the socket:black to black, white
to white, secure with wire nuts. Some electrical boxes have
a green screw inside to fasten ground wires, use that if
yours has one, otherwise fasten the green ground wire to
the box using one of the cover plate screws when you
tighten the cover plate.
WIRE THE REMOTE BALLAST
Hopefully you can see the wiring clearly in the photo, but
if not, refer to the wiring diagram for details.
YouӲe going to have to cut some holes in the Radio Shack
project box for the power cords and some bolts to hold the
ballast, ignitor and ground wires down.
I used a short length of metal (plumbing department) to
secure the ballast. The ignitor had a notch that made it
easy to bolt down. The ground wires from both electrical
cords are screwed to the base of the box.
Cut a short length off the socket (female) end of the
extension cord and wire it appropriately (again - see
diagram). Wire the remaining electrical cord, including the
grounded male plug to the other end of the box.
Use a tie wrap to bundle up the wires in the box and try to
keep them away from the ballast, which will heat up during
use.
TEST IT!
If you've done everything right, it should light.
Now, build a reflector and youӶe got a nice little custom
grow light.
Safety Warnings:
Always wire the male plug to the bulb socket and the female
receptacle to the ballast to avoid possible electrocution!
Always use an all metal project box which already has
ventilation cooling slots, or if your project box has none,
please cut adequate cooling slots, or drill several vent
holes in the ballast enclosure (project box) to allow the
heat to escape the box. Not adding the cooling slots or
holes, could result in failure of the insulation and/or the
transformer. Also, please be sure the enclosure is located
in a well ventilated area to aid cooling.
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Last cannabis grow log changed: 06:25 - May 23,
2011
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Eco Green Cannabis Link: (Older Version Location)
Click Here
Answer © 2011 ECO GREEN
1151 "How do I convert a common home security light into a
remote ballast grow light?">
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